Fall Lawn Care

Fall Lawn Care

Bill Leuenberger, Retired Manager of Chalet Soil & Turf

Jennifer Brennan, Chalet Horticulturist

Introduction to 2021 Lawn Care by Dr. Derrick Settle, CDGA

“This year Chicago’s especially dry conditions that began in spring were interrupted by a series of rain events that began during the second half of June. Saturated soils about midsummer resulted. This was all that was needed to trigger root rots. Once started, the effects can be long lasting.”

Chalet SOIL & TURF

Overview

• Our philosophy
• Nature Safe
• N-P-K
• Our Programs
• Organic vs. Traditional

Our Philosophy

• Its in the soil! We look to the soil and the needs of the soil.
• It is our philosophy to give our soils the best possible chance for continued health of the turf.
• Our products are the building blocks to a desirable soil profile.
• Without the focus on the soil, the turf will surely fail at some point.

NatureSafe

• NatureSafe products are the natural choice for soil and plant health.
• The organic feed compounds demanded by animals are also required by plants for their growth. NatureSafe has simply taken the same approach used to maximize animal nutrition to create a family of products that emphasizes soil and plant health.
• NatureSafe fertilizers are constructed, meal-based fertilizers derived from feed grade proteins, as meat, bone, blood, and feather meals.
• Highest amino acid concentration of any commercial fertilizer.
• The slow even feed minimizes top growth and enhances microbial activity which ultimately reduces thatch.
• The end result is a nutrition foundation critical to building root mass, improving density, and enhancing overall disease management to protect your turf.

Organic-based NatureSafe

• Keep in mind that a few of these NatureSafe fertilizers are bridge products
• They are juiced with another form of nitrogen to help stimulate growth.
• Top of the line products
• Organic-based products

N – P – K

• Nitrogen (N)
• Promotes rapid growth, leaf development, chlorophyll formation
• (the green up), and protein synthesis
• Phosphorous (P)
• Plays a key role in early root growth, accelerates maturity,
• stimulates blooming and aids seed formation
• Phosphorus can be applied if a soil test is taken and shows
• deficiency or any newly seeded lawn.
• Potassium (K)
• Good for building cell walls. It increases resistance to drought
• which will help through summer dormancy and make a plant
• tougher for the winter months. Also helps against disease pressure.

Our Program

• “Organic” is our GO-TO when proposing lawn care
• Each round is specifically designed for a reason.
• Our goal is to build a nutrient bank that sustains quality both naturally and with additives that create a healthy soil profile for turf root systems.
• We do not use added phosphorous as it is banned in Illinois. We do use P when its naturally formed in the fertilizer or when it’s a newly seeded lawn.
• Fungicides are only used if needed.

Round 1    18-0-8

• Round 1 (March- Mid April)
• This application was designed to be applied in a short period of time. Originally within a month. It is intended to be fertilizer only with no application of weed control.
• This round is a kick-off point as we are adding a small amount of nitrogen to green up at a pace the turf can handle.
• Will build microbes as the turf comes out of dormancy.

Round 2    30-0-8

• Round 2 (Mid April – End of May)
• This application is a synthetic fertilizer which includes pre-emergent weed control (DIMENSION) and a grub control (ACELEPRYN).
• This was designed to give a big boost in nitrogen and give us our protection against crabgrass and grubs.
• Weed control is included.
• This product is applied to sunny areas only. Grubs as well as crabgrass will generally not be found in shaded areas as soil temps are not high enough. Straight Fertilizer is used in the shade.

Round 3      10-2-8

• Round 3 (June – July)
• This application is a true organic, slow release, low nitrogen fertilizer.
• This was designed to provide low nitrogen and more potassium to prevent any burning and strengthen turf.
• Includes potassium that builds cell walls to help turf get through heat of the summer.
• Weed control is included.

Round 3 - details

• Round 3 (June – July)
• At this time of the year we consider several things
• Summer dormancy
• Heat
• Moisture
• Heat Tracks
• Localized dry spots
• Diseases (more info and pictures to come)

Summer Dormancy

Localized dry spots

Heat Tracking

• This is damage from walking, mowing, or driving on turf when it is stressed from high temperatures and lack of water.
• Most often seen as the result of mowers running over the turf when its near wilting point. Damage can also result from people walking on the same pathover and over again.
• Often misdiagnosed as the damage may look like herbicide or gasoline was on the tires of the equipment.
• Will come back and green up again with time, nutrients, and water.
• https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/warm_dry_weather_causes_heat_tracking in lawns

Round 4            21-3-7

• Round 4 (August-September)
• Higher concentration of nitrogen going into the fall for the cool season. One pound of nitrogen per thousand is applied.
• This is one of the most important rounds nutritionally as it is setting up the soil for microbial enhancement and preparing for winter dormancy.
• Best time to control weeds (we will going through weeds in a few weeks)
• Battling tree leaves on turf at this point. Techs may need to blow lawns.
• Core Aerations are being scheduled as this is the best time for seeding.

Core Aeration

• To be done around Labor day through the fall.
• Reduces compaction.
• Promotes root development.
• Allows more water, oxygen, and nutrients to get to the root system.
• Increases lawn density.

Core-Aerators (Core Aeration)

• Fall is the best time for aeration
• From the beginning of fall to the beginning of Winter (shorter days & cooler night temperatures), turf is setting itself up for Winter dormancy
• Turf is driving its root systems deeper into the soil
• It is storing carbohydrates to sustain Winter dormancy
• It uses potash (potassium) to build stronger cell walls
• Moisture content in the Fall is vital as deeper moisture helps all the above areas
• Seeding in the Fall is the best time of year (warmer soils an cooler air temperatures) – September is best, but you can still get sustained growth in early October seeding

Quote from Ron Townsend, former Chicago District Golf Association:

“The light at the end of the tunnel is core aerification time and all the benefit that comes from it”.

Round 5        9-0-9

• (October - November)
• Winterizing fertilizer with higher in potassium than other times of the year.
• Goal is to build the cell walls and harden off the plant to survive extreme cold temperatures.
• If temperatures allow, weeds will be treated.
• Battling tree leaves on turf at this point. Techs may need to blow lawns.

Traditional Program

• Straight forward program but still building microbes
• Round 1 ~ 16-0-2
• Round 2 ~ 30-0-8 with dimension and acelepryn
• Round 3 ~ 16-0-2
• Round 4 ~ 21-0-21
• Round 1 ~ 16-0-2

Soil & Turf

• Our position in the lawn care industry has always been looked upon as leaders by our clients, vendors and competitors. Our choices in fertilizers, control, and additives have always been based on qualityand results and not necessarily on cost.
• We observe your lawns and notate what we see every time we walk on a clients property. This gives us a complete picture of what our products are doing

What Chalet’s Soil & Turf Department can do that D-I-Y clients may need:

• Timing can be an issue
• Soil & Turf staff are there to use the correct controls
• They can also do an “on-site” analysis to make the correct diagnosis and recommend the best products and treatments
• https://chaletlandscape.com/pages/landscape-maintenance-service

Fall Lawn Care
(This year it is how to fix the bad months)

Going into Fall is the best time for “weeding, seeding and feeding”

• Fertilizers only give nutrients, “food” is produced by the plants with the sunlight using photosynthesis
• Well-fertilized, healthy, vigorous lawns are much more capable of producing “food” (sugars & carbohydrates) for the grass plants than non-fertilized grass plants
• Kill the weeds – this is the safest time of year because ornamentals aren’t actively growing
• Apply seed – this is the best time for seed establishment; warm soils, cool nights and easier to keep soil moist – in new areas or to thicken existing
• Feed - fertilizer, this is the best time of the entire year as the turf uses it most efficiently

Doing lawn care yourself        

• A DIYer can make applications on exact dates for best control
• You can apply as many times as seen fit
• You can have an exact focus on the areas that have specific needs
• The Chalet retail store carries every product that is needed for lawn care; with staff that has the expertise to inform you

Can DIY and Soil & Turf be combined?

• Of course
• Soil & Turf can apply seed; and the homeowner can overseed in a week or two in areas of non-germination
• They can fertilize right after Soil & Turf core-aerates

Basics for Success - 4 steps to do in September

1. Fertilize – Organic based or Synthetic
2. Eliminate weeds – evaluate the % of weeds and use either spot spray or broadcast “weed & feed”
3. Core-aerate to cultivate soil & remedy conditions causing thatch
4. “Over-seed” with improved grass seed

 Organic based Lawn Fertilizer

Fertilization –also organically based

• The first 2 weeks of September is the best time of the entire year to apply fertilizer
• Turf is actively growing due to warm soils and cool nights
• ¾ - 1 pound of N / 1000 sq ft.

Winterizer fertilizer

• Milorganite (“composted bio-solids”) will make the lawn more drought resistant the following summer.

Nature Safe uses a 8-3-5 ratio for strong cell wall formation and better cold hardiness

Fertilizer –synthetic or organic

• Synthetic forms:
  • Use slow release N
  • Usually higher N
  • Apply every 8 weeks
• Organic forms:
  • Nutrients available due to soil microbial activity
  • Slow-release, so less chance of burning
  • Best to apply monthly

Cultural practices are based on this:

Cool season grasses

• Soil less then 70 F
• Active growth phase in spring and fall
• Best time to fertilize

Warm season grasses 

• Soil more than 75 F
• Warm season weeds
• Crab grass - annual

Supplemental water

Effects of Dry Hot Weather on Cool-Season Turf

• Prefers air temps of 60-75 and soil temps of 50-65
• Average soil temps at 2” depth above 75 in July and August
• At temps above 75, roots slow resulting in “hidden turfgrass stress” called root dysfunction (declining, dying back causing turfgrass stress)

The low rainfall resulted in dry creeping bent grass areas that became very obvious.

• It was not even managed by supplemental watering

Annual Bluegrass impacted the most from the excessive heat

• Close-up of anthracose damage. We are looking for the conida producing structures of Colletotrichum called acervuli which are pepper-like spots and associated setae hairs. Settle, Aug 4, 2021
• Annual Bluegrass in a golf course green (did the same thing in lawns)

Most turf diseases were on leaf blades

• Dollar Spot
• Powdery Mildew
• Rust
• Anthracnose

Biggest disease in 2020 - Dollar Spot

First Dollar Spot Disease: Identified on Jul 30. Dollar spot 

Anthracnose

• “My first sighting of a fungal disease called anthracnose, Colletotrichum cereale, occurred August 6.”
• It is the enemy of Poa annuaor annual bluegrass. 
• Mitigation of plant stress is rule number one when trying to avoid anthracnose
• Wilt is the main trigger.

Rust

• These fungal pathogens and associated diseases have the potential to cause serious harm to turfgrass.  However, rusts on Ohio turfgrass seldom progresses beyond a nuisance with lawnmowers, lawn edgers, shoes, toes, small children, dogs, etc. acquiring an orange patina.

Rust

• It’s no accident that turfgrass may acquire an orange glow at this time of the year.  Rust infections proliferate on cool-season turfgrass that’s growing slowly during the dog days of summer.  There’s a reason they are called “cool-season.”  Rapidly growing turfgrass in the spring and fall presents a moving target to the rust fungi.

• The same perspective applies to nutrient-starved turfgrass.  We are approaching an optimal time of the growing season for making a turfgrass fertilizer application.  If a soil test has revealed there are no soil nutrient deficiencies, an application in early September that provides nitrogen will help the turfgrass grow past the orange-grasp of rust.  A slow-release form of nitrogen is recommended so the macronutrient is available over a longer period.

• Of course, if a little bit is good, a lot is not better!  While rust, as well as dollar spot, tends to occur most often on turfgrass suffering from a nutrient deficiency, other diseases such as brown patch and Pythiumblight can be made worse by over-applications of nitrogen.  Thus, it’s important to pay close attention to product application recommendations including using the proper fertilizer equipment settings.

Treatment of Rust

• Fungicide applications made before fungal rust infections become rampant can help slow disease development.  However, the time and expense are seldom justified.  Rust on turfgrass is usually a fleeting late summer problem and can be better managed by satisfying the nutrient needs of turfgrass in the early fall.
• “Surpress the fungus and grow the grass”

Fairy Ring

• “Think about this 2021 growing season in Chicago. We began record dry, then were very wet, and now we are dry again. We wanted a nice easy Chicago growing season. Never going to happen. Our heads are spinning as usual.”

Derrick Settle

Fairy Ring

• Summer heat
• Midsummer is when we typically see our most aggressive fairy ring. Summer always matters more.
• Because in summer a combination of factors can MORE quickly lead to dead zones behind the expanding rings.
• That is the type of fairy ring you do not want to meet.
• We call dead rings type 1 and they are the worst.
• Type 2 are the other ones that glow a darker green.
• Type 3 are the mushrooms and puff balls only.

Patch Diseases of Lawns

Management of Turf Disease

• Properly prepare the site/soil before sodding or seeding
• Avoid low mowing
• Reduce excessive thatch build-up, maintain under ½ inch
• Core aerate to reduce compaction, improve root system and manage thatch
• Use slow-release nitrogen
• Repair damaged areas with disease resistant Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass
• Fungicides help BUT should be applied preventatively in spring (May) before the fungus invades the plants.

Systemic Fungicides

• Immunox – myclobutinol
• Infuse – propriconizole
• BEST USED IN SPRING to prevent innoculation
• Preventative fungicide in Spring

Dr. Derrick Settle, CDGA

• How deep do I position the fungicide? To the depth of your green’s roots. This is a dynamic system and about midsummer roots are at their shortest for C3 (cool-season turfgrasses). But you will need to check it out.

Chinch Bug test

• Chinch Bug damage
• Control and Repair of Chinch Bug Damage
• Dylox
• Works within 24 hours
• Lasts only 3-5 days
• Quick kill effect
• Use to prevent severe damage to lawn

Grub Control – preventative – Scotts GrubEx

• Cleared for 6 insects – 2 grubs, chinch bugs, army worm, cranefly and billbug
• I. is Chlorantranilaprole
• Control is from chemicals applied to the soil, absorbed by the plant and remain throughout season
• Early application is best – too late now because it takes 14 days to absorb into plant tissues

Grubs in lawn

• Japanese Beetle and grub
• Grub Control after infestation
• Dylox
• Works within 24 hours
• Lasts only 3-5 days
• Quick kill effect
• Use to prevent severe damage to lawn

Damage indirectly from grubs – wildlife searching for grubs

• My own neighborhood skunk
• Secondary wildlife “pressure”
• Bonide Repels-All
  granular or liquid spray

Weeds:

• Mug Shot of Crabgrass
• Crab grass
• Common weed- chickweed
• Common weed- dandelion
• Common weed- purslane
• Common weed- spurge
• Difficult common weed- Creeping Charlie or ground ivy
• Difficult common weed – speedwell or Veronica
• Difficult common weed- nutsedge
• Difficult common weed- violets
• Selective Lawn Weed Killers

Selective Weed Killers

• Bonide Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis Killer
• Iron HEDTA based
•  

Mestrione for bent grass control – liquid

Weed (difficult types) preventative – Scotts Step 1 for Seeding, granular 

• - Mesotrione
• Prevents creeping bent grass
• Prevents nimblewill
• Prevents seed germination of most weeds
• Does not prevent grass seed germination
• Excellent nutrient levels

Grassy Weeds

Lawn Seed

• 1 pound / 300-500 sq ft
• Germination in 7 – 21 days
• Important to keep moist throughout establishment period
• Cover lightly with top soil
• Best to use mixes with several cultivars

Hot Dog Bun example of Correct Grass Seed Coverage

Use a drop or rotary spreader, or a hand whirly-bird spreader

Supplemental water

Guideline:

• Plants need 1” of rain or the equivalent in supplemental watering every week (when temperatures are 75 degrees F – for every 10 degrees above 75, add an additional ½”  of water.)
• To prevent transpiration stress at higher temperatures, water 2-3 times during the week, dividing the 2” between applications

Calibrate irrigation system – ½ inch of water in container each time the sprinkler runs – 3 times per week

Supplemental watering - Turf

Established vs. new

½” of water / month to keep crowns alive but dormant when established

Daily inspection for 3-4 weeks if newly planted

Seed – keep soil moist through germination plus 4 weeks (3 mows) – note exception to rule

Sod – light syringing 2x / day for 3-4 weeks until roots have knitted into soil (test by gently trying to pull sod up)

Final mow

• Usually in November
• Cut the blade length to 2 “ to prevent damage during frozen conditions in winter

Putting the lawn to bed properly helps it wake up healthy in Spring!

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